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#474. Tooth or Consequences
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There are three fixed stations on the ledge system at the top of P5. The rightmost is equipped with rings - this is the rap station you will use on the descent. The middle station is located on the left side of a large white block - use this to bring up your partner. The leftmost station is located on a small ledge below the middle belay - it is a good place to belay for the next pitch, but would create serious drag. Either move the belay left or belay off the middle station for P6. P6: Begin up good edges on a short wall left of the belay.
Once on the ledge above, move right around a boulder and back left to the base of a finger crack in a white dihedral. Climb up into the crack, clip a bolt on the steep white wall, and pull around the left side of the arete onto a featured face. Follow this face to a stance and a fixed belay. P7: Climb up the sea of edges to a slanting ledge below the base of the tooth. Fixed belay. Classic Red Rock face climbing. Beware of a 3'x2'x1' loose block on the arete about halfway through the pitch. The path of least resistance climbs straight through this block, and if released it would likely clean out the belay below.
P8: The Tooth! Pedal up a thin varnished slab to a stance at the base of the arete. A short bouldery crux turns the arete. Fun face climbing leads to a fixed belay on the summit. Keep a sharp eye on the leader through the crux moves - while well-protected, slack in the system could put the leader back on the slab. Approach as for the Challenger Wall. Boulder hop through the drainage until the creek forks - this is just past the Challenger Wall. Cut up and left on a trail that leads past Adventure Punks. Stay low avoiding the Challenger Wall. At this point you should be able to look up and see the tooth.
Follow slabs to the base of the route. Bolts lead up the left side of the roof.
This is the start of P1. Descent: Rap the route.
Some of the raps are rope-stretchers so be mindful of rope ends. For the rap at the top of P5 ledge with multiple stations mentioned above use the right-most station - the only station of the three that is equipped with rap rings. Protection Single rack to 2.
Most pitches are equipped with one or more bolts. All belays are fixed. Add New Photo Photo Photo copy. Tooth or Consequences, from base to top. Pitch 1. Tooth looming. Photo: Oskar L. The incredible p7. Such a great climb. Homemade Rusty "China" Easy to see why someone left a bunch of biners on route to rap. Sketchy Trifecta!
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Homemade Rusty "China"…. The cusp of the tooth!! Xavier leading up the fun fourth pitch. Xavier leading up the start of pitch 2.
Tooth and Consequences - Wikipedia
Fun lit…. Andrew Megas-Russell leading on Pitch 7. This w…. Andrew Megas-Russell leading on Pitch 3. Turning the arete and moving into the upper…. View of the route from the base. P1 begins left…. Show 1 More Photos.